Penne 4 Your Thoughts

Penne Cole's thoughts on food, travel and more

On safari in the Klaserie

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Jungle-themed mural in Newtown, NSW

I came across this mural in Newtown one day in March. Amazing though it is, surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the city, it looked completely out of place. It did, however, make me really look forward to a change of scene, and why not an animal-themed one?

Fast forward a couple of months and I find myself in South Africa. I spent a few nights in Africa On Foot, a lodge in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve that specialises in walking safaris. Africa On Foot claims that it specialises in Big Five safaris and it did not disappoint.

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We are picked up at Hoedspruit airport by a friendly guide. On the way in, we spot baboons, impala, waterbuck, and a herd of elephants. I’d never been on safari before, and didn’t know what to expect, but this density of animals was amazing. Little did I know, but that was just a teaser.

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Over the next few days, we saw heaps of animals, including all of the big five. The feared African lion were, I have to say, the least impressive. Both times we spotted them, they were doing nothing more exciting than enjoying a siesta in the sun. In fact, our guide mentioned that he’d spent hundreds of hours with this particular pair of lionesses, most of which they had spent sleeping.

IMG_0913 (2).JPGOur leopard encounter was a little more exciting. We had just finished sundowners and were heading back to camp. Enoch, out on the “bait seat”, had a powerful torch and was sweeping the light in steady arcs, trying to spot some nocturnal animals. All was quiet in the truck, and after a pretty great game drive, we were all happy to head back to the warmth. We don’t see him at first. Enoch’s powerful torch is off to the side, scanning the bush. But the leopard is straight ahead, lying by the side of the road, next to one of the final forks in the road before reaching camp. “Leopard!”, calls our driver excitedly, and instantly, everyone is alert. Enoch’s beam swings around, catching it full in the face. The leopard calmly pads off into the bush and down into a nearby gully. We try to follow it for a while, all of us on the edge of our seats, but eventually we are forced to admit defeat.

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Africa On Foot specialises in walking safaris, and it sure didn’t disappoint. The first two mornings we were there, the wind is too strong and we are forced to do a game drive instead. But on the third morning, the weather is perfect and we head out on our walk. There have been reports of rhino in the area, so our guide points us in that direction. Before we know it, we come across a crash (don’t you just love this term?) of rhinos. We crouch down behind some shrub, peering through the branches at the magnificent animals. We are quiet as mice, but they must have sensed us and they slowly start walking. Before we know it, they have circled to our right, and there is nothing but wide open space between us and those menacing horns. They come closer and closer and we all freeze, holding our breaths.  They are a mere five metres away when our guides decide that they are close enough. They start clapping their hands and patting their thighs, trying to scare them away. The rhinos are unfazed. One even takes a step closer. Our guide starts to slide the bolt of his rifle in place, and it is this metallic noise, so alien in the bush, that finally scares the rhino off. We all breathe a collective sigh of relief.

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It is our last day on safari and we still need one more animal to round out our Big Five – the cape buffalo. On our morning walking safari, we spot some fresh buffalo tracks, but going in the opposite direction. Our guide promises to circle around, and hopefully spot them on the way back. True to his word, and testament to his skills as a tracker, we are on our way back to camp when he tells us to get down. There is a large watering hole in front of us, screened by a clump of trees, and from what we can see, there are a couple of buffalo right in front of us, on the other side of the trees.

The buffalos move, thankfully not towards us, and we creep closer. Turns out we were wrong – there aren’t just two or three buffalo here; it’s a whole herd. They have just drunk their fill from the waterhole and are following a little gully out onto higher land. We watch silently, not daring to move. Luckily, the safari truck is close by and they come to pick us up. The animals are used to the truck, but not to humans on foot, so we can get a lot closer (and feel a lot safer!) when we are in the vehicle. After some time observing the buffalo, it’s time to head back to camp and back to reality.

This post was inspired by the Weekly Photo Challenge: Delta.

11 comments on “On safari in the Klaserie

  1. Pingback: Delta Arrival | What's (in) the picture?

  2. Mabel Kwong
    July 2, 2017

    Safari on an African adventure! One off the bucket list for you, and up close with the animals too. Maybe that’s the way the African lions are – lazy. Or they are juts so used to visitors passing by that it is nothing special to them 😀 So cool you also got to go out on safari in the dark out in the open. Good to hear the rhino didn’t come nearer…but maybe it was just very friendly 😀

    • Penne Cole
      July 4, 2017

      Haha the rhino didn’t appear threatening at all. Just inquisitive. But it was still a relief when they turned around and ran!

  3. de Wets Wild
    July 3, 2017

    I hope the memories of your time in the African bush will last a lifetime, Penne, but I also know that once you have Africa in your blood you’ll want to return again and again!

    • Penne Cole
      July 4, 2017

      It was so amazing I almost don’t want to do another safari so this one will always be perfect.

  4. Abrie Joubert
    July 4, 2017

    This must have been amazing have been in the Kruger but alas not a walking Safari. You are fortunate to have seen the leopard – I did not. This is a post with my ten favorite photos the post is in Afrikaans but photos speak your language 🙂

    • Penne Cole
      July 12, 2017

      Yes, we were very lucky indeed! Great adventure 🙂 Thanks for your link.

  5. upsidedownralu
    October 19, 2017

    wow, great that you saw the leopard! we were also in Klaserie but at the Gomo Gomo, and herd stories of leopards hanging around, but unfortunately didn’t see one there..

  6. Sam Hankss
    January 15, 2018

    Hi, I have read some of your blog posts and I absolutely love them. You’re so lucky to see a leopard! Those cats are hard to find! I know this because I am currently a safari guide in South Africa not far from the Klaserie and am trying to share my experiences with everyone. It would be greatly appreciated if you have a look at my blog and let me know what you think. Many thanks in advance.

    • Penne Cole
      January 23, 2018

      Hi Sam. Thanks for dropping by and your kind comments about my blog 🙂 Yes, I was very lucky to see the leopard indeed! You are lucky to live in such a beautiful country.

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This entry was posted on July 2, 2017 by in Africa, Photography, South Africa, Travel, Weekly Photo Challenge and tagged , , , , , , , .

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